St Dupont Blanc Women Parfum

Yves Saint Laurent Belle d’Opium, with “hairspray oriental.” YSL calls it the “next generation” of Opium.

Perfumers Honorine Blanc and Alberto Morillas formulated Belle d’Opium, giving it notes including Casablanca lily, sandalwood, gardenia, white pepper, jasmine, and narguile accord. After a generous spray of Belle d’Opium, smell a hint of orange before gardenia takes over.

The gardenia isn’t the wet, tropical gardenia of Estée Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia or even Jovan Jungle Gardenia, but is a thin, synthetic flower coated in Aqua Net. A thread of tobacco and fruit run through the gardenia. The tiniest bit of jasmine hums along, too. Because of a little resin and amber, it does smell like a high-pitched relative of Opium, but without Opium’s drama and deep, clove-y spice.

In an article in Elle magazine**, perfumer Calice Becker compares mainstream perfumes to formulaic romantic comedies. “With mass perfume, it’s the same: We go for the stars that we recognise every one likes.” But the same article goes on to quote Vera Strubi, the former president of Thierry Mugler perfumes. About Angel’s launch, she says, “That’s when I realized that if you want a fragrance to be memorable, it can’t please everybody.”

Opium took a bold stance over 30 years ago, and it still sells well, offending and delighting all over the globe. On the other hand, tries to be a romantic comedy, if with a vaguely oriental feel.

Yves Saint Laurent Belle d’Opium is available in 30, 50 and 90 ml Eau de Parfum.